The Night Market of the Dunes

After dark, when the sand gives back the day's heat, a desert town sets its tables outside. Notes on eating late where the paved road ends and the good bread begins.

Read the dispatch →

The Darkest Sky We Have Left

A night with the volunteers guarding one of the last truly black skies in the country — and what a lightless horizon quietly does to the people who stand under it.

Read the essay →

The DESERT field notes

Don't want to remember to check back?

Let the good ones come to you. One letter, once or twice a month — essays, a photograph, a slow-travel dispatch.

Subscribe on the sign-up page →